There is something about the frayed edges of cities, where the tunnels and the tracks and the tags and the tumble weeds coalesce. There is something about these frayed edges that speak to decline, to fading, defeat, and betrayal. It speaks also to reclamation, of the temporality of man’s defeat of nature. You see it everywhere, in L.A., near the airport, in Chicago by the refineries. Cities fray, they are never complete and perfected. Not anywhere. Nowhere
“I’ll be honest with you. I’ve never been in the dome car. Terrible isn’t it? 35 years on the railroad I’ve never been in the dome car. They won’t let me in it.”
It really amazes me how quickly and dramatically nature unfurls itself in this massive, global city. New York really is the capital of the world, and yet it capitulates to nature quickly and more starkly than any large city I have ever been in. We expect Boston to melt into Cambridge and, eventually, New Hampshire. We expect the vast electrified grid of L.A. to climb, ever defiantly, up the mountains towards God. But words evade any proper description of The Palisades emerging into view just inches past the GWB.
The erudite, but chatty, South Asian couple behind me has not stopped talking this whole time.
“What Bridge is That?”
“Is that the East River?”
“That’s Weehawken, right?”
For those concerned, we are crossing the Henry Hudson Bridge at the Harlem River. I should not have left my umbrella at home
Fog settles in over the Hudson Valley.
“People are sleeping”
Duly noted (throat clearing)
“That looks like a nice restaurant over there” Half Moon.
The Tappan Zee Bridge which my mother used to take to work. Everyday. In a Gold Duster.
Fog falls over the Hudson valley. An opening just few miles north of the Tappan Zee. The visual is like nothing I have seen before. The Hudson a vast, and imminently proximate sheet of cobalt. I am reminded strangely of The Time of Legends, from the early 80’s fantasy flick “Time Bandits”. The Time of Legends seemed to exist outside the continuum of history; a sort of hybridized Valhalla and purgatory, where tall tales of yore existed in perpetuity, in almost brooding isolation.
Brooding Isolation.
Brooding perhaps. Isolated in only the emotional sense. The South Asians will not stop talking. We are passing a prison. Brooding Isolation. Are we at Ossining? Do we simply pass through Sing Sing just like that. Is that all?
We pass through Sing Sing just like that.
Westerly Marina was all that could be made out from the blur of signage that sweeps so swifly from view. I have never seen anything before like it. Not even back in August.
No, it was July. July when we went up to Beacon. We were supposed to go hiking in Storm King but it was going to Rain.
“Birds walking on the water?”
“Ducks. Ducks. A lot of ducks there.”
“My wife and I were beginning to talk about the history of the Hudson. Please feel free to join us in the snack car.”
Croton-Harmon.
“I have a question for everybody?”
What makes a country wealthy?
How about commerce?
The Hudson Highlands
At West Point
“We hear so many bad things about kids, the ganges, the guns, the violence, the tattoos, and these academy kids are just great kids”
At Beacon
“Notice the terminology. Installations.”
“Are you in the art business? Oh, you just like it.”
The aroma of macaroni and cheese wafts in from the cafe car.
Henry Hudson went North.
Champlain went South
“I’d like to take the tour of Olympic Stadium, take the tour, of that . . . you know, arch thing.”
“If you make it to the West Coast you should take the Coastal Daylight. Oakland to LA. Train goes all the way up to Seattle.”
“The passenger trains are running on time becuase of the recession; fewer freight trains to occupy the tracks”
“One thing I can say is, I always appreciate this view”
“There’s an ariel show in Rhinebeck”
“Oh ya! We did that”, said the same gentleman who spoke so eagerly about CIA.
There’s a town called Fleischmann’s, it’s now become in the summer a hasidic village. The sociology of the area has changed. There used to be leather tanning. The history changed about World War II.
Sun opens somewhere north of Hudson. Some of the trees are bare, others are, thankfully, mutlichromatic of orange, yellow, burgundy, and even occasional green.
I am reminded of the drive to New Hampshire almost a year ago today and, particularly, the morning after the election, when Dave Henry and I had to throw away literally tons of campaign lit against an endless backdrop of rusted elms at the edge of Concord.
A child waves with his mother to the train. Growing up, my elementary school, Hawthorn Primary (which later became Hawthorn Primary North, then Hawthorn Elementary North), stood near the train tracks where Butterfield Road hit Route 60. I remember feeling particularly excited about trains, though never to the extent necessary to want a model set or to become the type of train enthusiast I often see on routes such as these. I remember, only vaguely, the many freight cars that passed by: for Canadian National, Conrail, Soo Line (there was a kid in my class named Sulin, who surely got grief for this. “Here comes the Sulin train”, we might once have said. He didn’t like me much). I didn’t necessarily know what any of these names connoted. But it was the caboose I was most excited by. It looked so . . . little, and homey, and underscaled to the rest of the train. But there mere site of it got me terribly excited, whether I was viewing a train passing by at an intersection, or from school, or at daycare. I don’t actually know what the inside of a caboose looks: there is a hotel near where I grew up called “The End of the Line” (at least that’s what I last knew it to be called), which consists entirely of hotel suites made from converted cabooses. The owner also owned a hotel with a jailhouse theme and lived in a gold-plated pyramid in Wadsworth. A bit of an eccentric, he.
I only ever recall being able to see the train pass from one particular classroom at Hawthorn: it was where I had reading class with Mrs. Bleck as a First Grader, and then math class as a second grader with Mrs. McConnell (I’m not at all sure, to this day, if here last name was McConnell or McDonald, likely the former. As a child, you here every synonym to McDonald as, well, McDonald).
I won’t ask something so banal as what ever happened to that eager young child. I know what happened to him: I ignored him, so he left. He died a long time ago, he may even have passed on with my mother.
You want more than you can actually do.
We arrive at Albany, an odd amalgam of modernist spires by Edward Durell Stone. A bowl sits in the middle, they hold the bar exam here for those not fortunate enough to get the Javits Center.
The leaves turn yellower, draw closer.
The chatty South Asians are relating anecdotes about train travel to Pune, complaints about their adult childrens lack of incorporation of them into their everyday lives.
“Later on, they will realize this and it will be too late. They should be interracting more. The problem is I haven’t even seen Navid’s house. Two years. Because they don’t want to invite us also. If they were more friendly, then it’s a different story. It’s the girls who keep the relationship. Not boys.”
We pass cities where they made glass and flour.
I’ve never been in a dome car before. There are no outlets. I’m sure it’ll be something once we reach the Dacks, perhaps around Sunset.
Passing SUNY-Albany campus. Looks terrible.
Schenectady. ”There’s an Afghan restaurant Kabul Night, it’s excellent. Actually lighter than Indian food, none of the rich foods or creams.”
The Mohawk Valley
The scent of ketchup wafts through the dome car.
I’ve woken up somewhere outside Fort Ticonderoga. The skies are grayer, the landscape more impoverished, and the cellular signals have disappeared. I did not tell anyone where I was to be this weekend. I will not arrive in Montreal until early evening, still not too late to contact my Father. But how will anyone else know where I am? This is at once exciting and irritating. Should I just head to the Village? Find a room at the hostel? Go to a Sauna?
Lake Champlain smells awful, but is still very, very nice.
“You’re about to be part of one of the most beautiful scenery views of the entire trip. You’re not only going to see the Mining Museum, but three rail cars.”
Bales of hay. I used to love hay bales. And hay balers. In fact, that was one of my favorite rides at Great America as a child. The Hay Baler was just a ring of cars that moved very, very quickly around a giant dome covered in hay. I amused very easily as a child, much more so than these days.
I should have downloaded Dvorak’s American Suite before coming up these parts. They are so starkly beautiful and haunting. The Burned Over District in all its smoldering resilience, so named for the firey fervor of revivalist zeal that conflagrated across Upstate New York in the early 19th Century. Here, Joseph Smith believed he was visited by God and Jesus in a grove, and later instructed by an angel named Moroni to dig up plates of gold which told a story of lost tribes of Israel that were actually predecessor cultures of the Native Americans. Told this way, the Book of Mormon sounds much more like The Celestine Prophecy.
There is something very haunting up here. Not haunting, but haunted. As though the primary tenants of these fields and tracts are phantasmic tiller men. Mushroom soil.
We are held at the border. We have been waiting for some time. Will be at least an hour late. Stalled first at the border by a couple with a customs issued, then later by debris on the track which we struck in the dark. It is most irrirating. My plans for this evening have likely fallen through which, on the one hand, means no plans for dinner and no place to stay but, on the other hand, means that I am free to be as reckless as I want to be.
There is suddenly alot to worry about. How will I get money? Do the ATM’s still work up here? Is there a currency exchange at the train station? Will it still be open at almost 9:00pm on a Saturday? Shit Shit Shit.
I will probs have to get a hotel. So much to do. Will be at least ten before I’m settled. But may yet still have a date.